An Unapologetically Indian Review

 An Unapologetically Indian Review

 

There are two types of foodies in the Tri State area. Those who have experienced Dhamaka and those who are waiting for the experience. We moved from the latter to the former this week. 

 

It was a meal that had a build up like none other. My older one had flown-in from New Orleans. We had invited our fellow foody  friends to join us. The menu had been scrutinized multiple times over with excruciating detail and feedback and tips had been gathered. There were those who had made it before us, some even multiple times, and that tells you life isn’t always fair. Some claimed Chintan was on their speed dial. There were others who were surprised that lesser mortals like us managed to snatch a reservation and started floating conspiracy theories like, “he must have sold his soul”, me not Chintan of course. 

 

So there we were, after braving peak Holland Tunnel traffic on a Thursday evening, at the doorsteps of what has come to be considered the ultimate destination for Indian cuisine this side of the Atlantic. Unassuming is the first thing that came to mind as we were shown our spartan seating arrangements. Chairs that screamed ‘you are not here for the comfort’ and tables that were, well, clean. The décor reminded me of At least 15 other restaurants in various cities across India and those heavily decorated colorful trucks that ply across Pakistan (is it kosher to use a Pakistani simile when talking about an Indian restaurant). We were given the Menus but little did they know that we had already memorized it and could repeat every item in perfect order along with the descriptions. 

 

There was a brief discussion over what drinks to order. So we ordered them all. And despite somewhat corny names (Paaji, really) they tasted good. My problem with most cocktails, especially at non-bar fine dining spaces is the mixers usually overpower the taste. At Dhamaka the cocktails were subtle and the alcohol shown through. Good start.

 

Eateries that have made a mark for themselves can afford to be eccentric in the way they conduct business. So when the server told us we had to order everything at one go and we could only order entrees once and sides and appetizers multiple times, we attributed this to the eccentricity that comes with the turf. So we ordered. And we ate. Most starters finished as soon as they landed on the table.

 

The ajwaini paneer was grilled to perfection and the paneer was soft. I waited for that unmistakable crunch of ajwain in my mouth but didn’t find one. Maybe I gulped it down too fast. The paplet, or fried pomfret for the uninitiated, had more batter than the fish. Tabak Maaz, and we ended up ordering one more serving, would have found a place at any great Wazwan serving in Kashmir, but the piece-de-resistance was the Gurde Kapoore. I don’t remember the last time I scraped the gravy from the bottom of a serving dish with a piece a bread. It was spicy, flavourful and simply delectable. So much so that the initial aversion to eating testicles by some members of our party disappeared immediately with the first taste of that gravy. So far wonderful.

 

There was a toss up between Champaran Mutton and Nihari. We opted for Bihar and left Lucknow for the next visit. The moment our server opened the lid from that clay pot and squashed that garlic bulb (the entire thing just melted in the gravy) we knew this was special. The goat neck biryani was, well, spicy. Forget Delhi spicy, forget even Hyderabad spicy (I have lived in both those cities so I know what I am talking about) this was do-not-use-toilet-paper-or-it’ll-catch-fire spicy. And after that the taste buds just stopped working. So much so that we ordered the only dessert item for formality and while Chhena podi is an acquired taste in any setting, it was completely underwhelming, especially after the mutton and the biryani. 

 

We  had a healthy debate at home on what each one of us felt about the experience. “The most amazing paav I have ever eaten”. This was my sixteen year old daughter. My wife usually refrains from eating Indian cuisine outside but she said she will make an exception for Dhamaka. But the best comment came from my older daughter, who is a foodie like me, “daddy look for the next available reservation as there are 9 more things on the menu that we haven’t tried yet”. I whole heartedly agree.